Obagi Skincare
Beauty Products: Does NEW Always Equal IMPROVED?
Not a chance, says one well-known dermatologist. He explains how to decipher real skincare innovation from marketing hype
The fashion industry and auto manufacturers come out with new collections every year, so why shouldn’t all industries aim for endless evolution? Because “new” does not always mean “improved.”
One example: Foam overlays for mattresses, which add extra cushioning, were first produced in the 1970s. Soon some company developed egg-crate foam overlays. Other companies copied it and evolved the idea even further—with the three-zone mattress overlay. This used the egg-crate model but made the design “square” for the feet, “rounded” for the torso and “rippled” for the head. The theory that your feet define comfort any different from your head was, well, shaky at best. But consumers bought it. The three-zone mattress became a marketing home-run. So what did retailers want the next year? A five-zone mattress overlay—which boasted new zones for the bottom of your leg and the back of your thighs. Of course, the concept was ridiculous, and I’m happy to report that consumers didn’t “buy” it either.
But in skincare, marketing lingo and sales ploys are often harder to spot. A lot of innovations are driven by marketing (not solid, scientific research). Some companies back up their claims with what amounts to voodoo science, some use gimmicks, still others employ outright lies. Unfortunately, the skincare industry is so large, it’s difficult for Federal Trade Commission (or any other industry or government watchdog) to monitor. So how do you know what you can believe? And how do you keep from ponying up hard-earned cash for a product that won’t live up to its claims?
- Understand the tricks played in “before and after” photos. For example, in shots where the mouth is cropped out of the photo (presumably so you focus on the wrinkles around the eyes), the subject may be smiling in the “before” picture and, in the “after,” she’s wearing a straight face, so as not to induce wrinkling around the eye. Remember, if the photos look too good to be true, they probably are.
- Talk to your dermatologist and/or aesthetician before you buy. They read journals and attend trade shows, so they should be informed about the latest advances and can help you navigate which technologies are real innovations—and which are just weird science.
- In a department store, ask to speak with the Cosmetics Department Manager, and get her opinion on a new product. She sees a lot of brands (and returns!), so she’s better informed and more objective than the counter person. It’s also likely that she has worked in the store for a longer period of time, and has had better training.
- Before you buy a product, ask the retailer or website what their return policy is. And, most importantly, find out if they offer a satisfaction guarantee. Without it, you have to wonder why they aren’t standing behind their claims. I say, let that be a warning to you.
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About the Author
Zein Obagi, MD is the quintessential maverick of Skin Care. Twenty years ago he pioneered the concept of skin health and developed a line of medical skin Care Products that transformed aging skin. At that time, he merely intended to challenge the norms of traditional skin care. Instead he shattered the status quo. Today his old ideas about skin health are no longer surprising; they’ve become mainstream. Around the world, his name is the unofficial synonym for results-oriented skin care. Now he’s done it again with ZO Skin Health™– the first retail line of anti-aging skin care products that brings Rx-inspired, results-oriented technology to go above and beyond traditional cosmeceuticals. Today, his standards are still as high, but his philosophy isn’t quite so controversial. Because beauty–and health–are two things the whole world can agree on.
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